Print at 100%
Any home printer will do. Print the template at 100% on matte paper around 200 gsm, which holds a joint best. Turn off "Fit to page" - it silently shrinks her.
Una hoja de papel, tijeras de uñas y un hilo con un nudo. Así se montaban las muñecas de papel vintage hace cien años, y todavía funciona. La guía completa vive aquí en lugar de en un PDF - así se puede corregir, ampliar y mejorar para siempre.
Marca cada paso a medida que avanzas - la página recuerda dónde lo dejaste
Antes de recortar nada: comprueba la escala
Abre la ventana de impresión y comprueba la escala: debe indicar Tamaño real o 100%. Ajustar a la página encoge la hoja, y la muñeca sale más pequeña de 17 cm. Imprime el PDF pensado para tu papel, Letter o A4, así no hace falta redimensionar nada.
Any home printer will do. Print the template at 100% on matte paper around 200 gsm, which holds a joint best. Turn off "Fit to page" - it silently shrinks her.
Nail scissors are enough. For the gaps inside a piece - between fingers - pierce first, then cut outwards from the hole.
Every joint has a small dot that marks the hole. Pierce the center of the dot, resting the piece on an eraser or a cork so the paper does not tear.
Push the brad through both pieces and open the legs - loosely. She has to swing. A thread with a slack knot does exactly the same job.
Un remache apretado hasta el fondo. La articulación se bloquea y la muñeca deja de moverse. Déjalo lo bastante suelto para que la pieza gire con su propio peso.
Un pequeño punto en cada articulación muestra dónde va el agujero. Perfora justo en el centro.
Mate, de unos 200 g/m². Un papel más fino funciona si lo pegas sobre cartón de una caja de cereales - la articulación necesita cuerpo, no grosor.
Nada aquí es obligatorio. Dile a la página qué te falta y te mostrará qué usar en su lugar.
76 respuestas
Thread with a knot. Pass it through both holes and tie it loosely on each side so the piece still turns. That is how it was done a hundred years ago.
Two small buttons and thread - one button each side, sewn to each other, very vintage. Also: an unbent paper clip, the wire tie from a bread bag, an eyelet, or elastic thread, which makes the limbs springy.
Pierce the top piece first, lay it exactly where it belongs, and push the needle through it to mark the piece underneath. Never measure - always mark through.
Glue a coin, a washer or a strip of thick card behind the feet. Weight low down is worth more than any stand.
Glue the joint flat and hide the seam under a button or a sticker.
Do not tighten the fastener all the way. Slip in a washer - a bead, a paper circle, a ring cut from a drinking straw. Then rub the joint with a pencil: graphite works as a lubricant.
A copy shop. It is one page - ask for 200 gsm matte, printed at 100%.
Stick a stationery reinforcement ring, or a small piece of tape on the back - before you pierce, not after.
Put the head on the back and open the legs towards the front, where the next piece hides them. If it has to stay in front, cap it with a circle from a hole punch or color it with a marker.
Add a paper washer for friction, or swap the thread for elastic - the limb then springs back where you put it. A little graphite evens out the resistance so it holds without locking.
Look at the print window before you print: the scale must say Actual size or 100%. Fit to page shrinks her, and she comes out smaller than 17 cm.
Give it ten minutes and hold the sheet by the margins. Inkjet on matte paper feels dry long before it actually is.
A paper clip bent into a stand. A clothes peg. A piece of Blu-tack.
Push a needle into an eraser or a wine cork and you have a handle. A push pin, a toothpick, the point of a compass or a spent ballpoint refill all work.
An eraser, a cork, cardboard folded in four, or a scrap of foam. Anything that lets the point through without blunting it.
A magnet on the back, and onto the fridge she goes.
A brad only needs a short slit. A round hole is optional.
Glue a small patch of paper on the back, let it dry, and pierce again through both layers. On a visible spot use a scrap of the same printed sheet.
Pierce it with a needle, slide the tip of nail scissors into the hole and cut outwards. Or fold the piece gently at that spot and snip along the fold.
Brad legs are sharp, so give them thread and buttons instead, and let an adult pierce the holes with a blunt tapestry needle. Coloring a black and white print is the part they remember.
Curl them twice instead of once - the second turn tucks the tip under and stops it scratching. Or shorten them with nail clippers before you fold.
Nail scissors or embroidery scissors. On tight curves, nail clippers are unexpectedly good.
Thick cardboard, an old magazine, a chopping board. Not glass - it kills the blade in minutes.
Whichever matches the paper in your tray. The layouts differ, the doll does not: she is 17 cm in both.
Transparent background, no cut lines - made for laser cutters and cutting machines that find the outline on their own. The machine traces the edge of every part and cuts it for you. The same file prints her larger than a page.
Tie a double knot and add a small drop of white glue to the knot itself. Keep the glue off the paper, or the joint will stick, and let it dry completely before she moves again.
The blade is blunt. Change it far more often than feels reasonable - that is half of a clean cut.
Inner shapes first, the outer silhouette last. While the piece is still attached to the sheet it stays flat and stiff, and the fiddly parts become far easier.
Keep the blade still and turn the paper instead, supporting the piece flat with your other hand. Short strokes, never one long sweep.
This doll is not a toy for children under three. Keep brads, beads, buttons, coins and magnets out of their reach, because children that young can swallow parts this small or choke on them. Count the parts out before you start and count them again when you clean up.
An office punch makes a hole about 6 mm (1/4 inch) wide, wider than the 4.5 mm head of a brad, so the brad falls straight through. Pierce the small dot that marks the hole with a needle or an awl instead, or use a craft punch of 2 mm or less.
Print on ordinary paper and glue it onto card: a cereal box, a shoe box, the back of a notepad. Or glue two printed sheets together.
A manila folder, an old postcard, a playing card for the smaller pieces.
Cut the sheet into rough blocks first, one part per block with a generous margin, and keep each part's circled number inside its block: a slip at this stage only costs you margin. Then trim each part exactly, because a small block turns easily in your hand.
Matte paper plus the "photo / heavy paper" setting in the print dialog. Glossy looks brighter for an hour and then keeps every fingerprint you leave on it.
Spread the glue thin and right to the edges, then press the sheet under a stack of books until it is properly dry. A glue stick warps less than PVA.
Wide clear tape on both sides is the simplest. Self-adhesive book covering film also works. Or press a laminating pouch with an iron through baking paper - a hair straightener does it too.
Give the child the larger pieces with long, gentle outlines, and let them cut with their own round-tipped children's scissors. Keep small details, tight curves and sharp corners for an adult.
Put a lamp about 15 inches (40 cm) from your work, on the side opposite your cutting hand, so the shadow of your hand falls away from the line. Eyes need more light with age, and fine cutting is where you notice it first.
Read the word after the number: 110 lb index is about 200 gsm, 65 lb cover about 176 gsm and 80 lb cover about 216 gsm, and all three work. Text weight is a different scale, so 80 lb text is only about 118 gsm and far too thin on its own.
Matte acrylic spray varnish, or PVA glue thinned with water. The paper stays paper, it just stops fearing hands.
Leave about 2 mm of film around the piece instead of cutting flush - that sealed border is what holds. Trim the corners at a slight angle so nothing catches.
Print on the whiter, smoother side, which carries the coating that holds the ink. The back is often slightly off-white, and a print on it comes out blotchy. If both sides look alike, check the pack: it usually marks the printable side.
Print in gray and color her in yourself. With children this quietly turns into the main event of the evening.
Same tray, same paper, same setting - and print the whole family in one go. Printers drift between sessions, so a doll printed tonight and an arm reprinted next week rarely share a shade.
Give a fresh inkjet print at least a full day before it goes under film or glass, and longer where large areas are heavily inked. The ink keeps giving off solvents after it feels dry, and sealed in too early they can fog the glass or raise small bubbles under the film.
In the PDF reader's own print window, choose "Actual size", because "Fit" and "Shrink oversized pages" both make her smaller. Then open the printer's Properties or Preferences, set its scaling to 100% and switch off borderless printing, which enlarges the page by a few percent. If you print straight from a web browser, open the PDF in a PDF reader instead, because browsers can scale the page on their own.
Color the edge with a marker or pencil to match the piece. Of all the small things, this one changes the result the most.
Go over it with a nail file.
Wipe the edges with a used tea bag, or dab brown ink on a sponge and touch only the outline. Stop earlier than you think - it reads as age only while it stays uneven.
Feed one sheet at a time through the rear or manual feed slot, where the paper bends far less than in the main tray, and choose the heavy or thick paper setting in the print dialog. Set the paper guides snug but not tight, and look up your model's maximum paper weight, which is often higher for that slot. Not every printer has such a slot, and without one it is easier to print on ordinary paper and glue it onto card.
Run the print head alignment from your printer's maintenance menu. If the lines still do not meet, switch off bidirectional or high-speed printing in the driver: it is slower, but the head then prints in one direction only and the lines match up again.
Print a nozzle check from your printer's maintenance menu: gaps in the printed pattern mean that some nozzles are clogged. Check the ink levels, then clean the print head and print the check again. If gaps remain after a few cleanings, switch the printer off and try again the next day: the clog softens overnight, and every cleaning uses ink.
A light coat of matte varnish, or simply dry clean hands and holding her by the edges. Matte paper forgives; glossy never does.
Glue a drinking straw or a wooden skewer to her back.
Save both PDFs and the PNG in a folder you will find again, and keep a second copy on a USB flash drive or in cloud storage. A lost or torn piece can then be printed again at any time. A single reprinted part can come out a shade different, so for a perfect match print the whole sheet and rebuild her.
Color her before cutting, while the sheet is still whole. It lies flat and stays put, and thin parts never bend in your hand. Your strokes can run past the outline onto paper you will cut away, but keep clear of the circled numbers and the hole dots.
An envelope or a zip bag with the doll name written on it. Cut pieces are easy to lose and impossible to tell apart once four dolls share a table.
Stack them thinnest first and slip a paper washer between the two that must move independently. Otherwise the middle piece drags both of its neighbors with it.
After. The film then seals the rim of the hole and that is exactly where paper usually gives up first.
Use spray varnish outdoors or by a wide-open window, with no open flame nearby, and keep children and pets away until the smell is gone. Hold the can about 12 inches (30 cm) from the pieces and give two light coats instead of one heavy coat. Between coats, wait as long as the label on the can says.
One continuous motion, turning the paper steadily into the blade while your cutting hand stays still. Stopping mid-curve is what leaves the flat spot.
Cut in two or three sittings - it is not a race, and a tired hand shows in every edge. Scissors tire the hand far less than a knife held at an angle.
Keep her out of direct sun: it fades printed ink, and faded color never comes back. Pick a shelf away from the window and not right across from it.
Turn off the lights, hold her by a drinking straw taped to her back a little in front of a pale wall, and aim an LED flashlight, which stays cool, at her from the other side. Close to the wall her shadow stays small with sharp edges, and as she moves toward the flashlight it grows larger and fuzzier. Set the flashlight down on a steady surface and keep its beam away from faces.
Fix the phone so it cannot move, then shift one arm or leg a few millimeters between photos. Played back at 8 to 12 photos a second, the pictures make her walk and wave. Light the scene with a lamp rather than daylight, so the brightness stays the same from frame to frame.
Print the sheet twice, mirror the second one, and glue them back to back. Align them against a window before the glue grabs - daylight through the paper shows every millimeter of offset.
Not for these. Canvas and linen finishes break the fine lines and swallow the eyes. Smooth matte keeps the print intact.
Replace the fastener and add a punched paper washer on each side. The hole rarely fails first - the metal simply widens it.
Whisk the dust off with a clean, dry, very soft brush, such as a makeup brush, in light strokes from her head toward her feet, but do not brush over pastel, which smears. Keep water, damp cloths, cleaning sprays and cleaners away from her, and stop as soon as the loose dust is gone.
Store her flat between the pages of a heavy book. If she is meant to be played with rather than displayed, laminate her and the weather stops mattering.
Colored pencil and dry pastel sit on top beautifully. Markers and anything wet lift the ink - test on the sheet margin first.
Every part has a small circled number printed next to it on the sheet: pencil that number lightly on the back of each piece as you cut it out. The outline picture of the assembled doll shows the same numbers, each one where its part goes.
Dab gloss varnish only where fabric or metal is shown and leave the face matte. That single contrast does more for realism than any amount of shading.
A shadow box or any frame deep enough that the glass never touches her. Pin her through the joints - never through the picture.
Thread from the top of the head, and balance two dolls on a stick until it hangs level. They turn with the room and the joints do the rest.
Escríbenos y la añadiremos a esta página - para eso mantenemos la guía en el sitio.
El ingenio vence al equipo. Cada muñeca de este sitio se puede hacer con cosas que no compraste para ello.
Loose on both sides and the joint still swings. Two buttons sewn to each other look even better.
Instant handle. A cork, a push pin or the point of a compass do the same.
Thin straight tips reach inside the small gaps. Nail clippers handle tight curves.
Print on plain paper, glue it to the card. The joint needs body, not thickness.
Both sides, smoothed from the center out. Book covering film is the tidier version.
Lo que tenemos en nuestra propia mesa. Cómpralo a lo largo de los años, no en una sola noche - las dos primeras líneas ya lo cambian todo.

4.5 mm round head, 8 mm shank, one per joint

The one tool that pays for itself on the first doll

Plus spare blades - more of them than you think

Self-healing, gridded, A3

Matte, 200 gsm, A4 or US Letter

Matte, 125 micron, A4

Fine straight tips, for everything the knife cannot reach

Color, with a rear tray that takes heavy paper

Pouch type, A4
Notas desde nuestra mesa - montaje, impresión e historia de las muñecas de papel.
4 artículos
Un soporte de clip, un imán, un poco de masilla adhesiva - vive en cualquier lugar




Una impresora de casa, papel y tijeras de uñas. Para las articulaciones: una aguja y remaches, o un hilo con un nudo. No hace falta cúter ni tapete de corte.
Un papel mate de unos 200 g/m² aguanta mejor las articulaciones. Un papel más fino funciona si lo pegas sobre cartón de una caja de cereales.
Siempre al 100%. «Ajustar a la página» cambia la altura de la muñeca. Cada muñeca viene como PDF US Letter y PDF A4, elige el que corresponda a tu papel.
Ata un hilo con un nudo suelto a cada lado de la articulación. Dos botones cosidos entre sí también funcionan.
El remache está demasiado apretado. Aflójalo hasta que la pieza gire con su propio peso.
Unos treinta minutos, en cuatro pasos: imprime, recorta, perfora los agujeros marcados, une.
So pretty and easy to put together!!
So much fun to put together. The quality is great!
I loved paper dolls when I was a child so to see someone selling these dolls made me very happy.
Moonsie es gratis. Imprímela esta noche y prueba todos los trucos de esta página antes de gastar nada.